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Repairing the Adblue tank/pump assembly, error P20E8

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1K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  CactiBhoy  
#1 · (Edited)
A few days ago I got the dreaded P20E8 error "Urea pressure too low".

Now in most cases the recommended solution is an expensive one; replace the whole tank. I took it personally though and decided to fix it.
For this, I found a great guide here https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3827598-180.html . Apologies for posting a link to another website, but this is too useful not to be shared.

Removing the tank is a walk in the park. Its held on by 3 bolts/washers, you don't even have to raise the car. There are 2 connections to it, the tube feeding pressurized urea to the injector and the power+CAN comms cable.
You can easily drain the tank by a side mounted drain valve. It has a torx screw that you remove first, then twist and remove the plug to drain.

After dropping the tank, you have a few screws to remove to access the internals of the pump assembly.

In my case I had a faulty thermistor on the heating plate (its been mentioned a few times in the above website) and two of the heater cores had loose connections. I ended up bypassing the heating plate thermistor by inserting an NTC 10k thermistor into the hole that goes to the plate. To fix the loose connections, I had to dig out the heating elements and resolder new wires. I have also checked the pump, solenoid and pressure sensor to make sure they work as expected, and they seem to do so.

To be on the safe side, I replace the urea injector.

Bottom line is that this specific error means the urea tank refuses for some reason to work. It could either be that the electronics are flooded and corroded to the point of not working at all, or it could be something as simple as a temperature sensor throwing a fit. At the end of the day however, I don't like spending £1000s to fix something that should be fixed with a few pounds. I realize this is not a fix for everyone, but for those not afraid to use a wrench and a soldering iron, give it a go.

I have yet to test if my repairs have been successful but will let you know tomorrow as soon as I do a few miles to allow for the system to kick in.


Also, make sure to have a read on this extensive thread on the issue

 
#3 ·
This is a fantastic update to this issue and something I'd hoped would become more prevalent in the future when I was first doing the long-winded write-up on my own tank issues that became a place for others to share their woes (I think the last check I did showed over 210,000 views on that post).

You're obviously very handy but hopefully those those less inclined to do the work themselves more and more places will be able to do this for a much lower cost than the dealer tank replacement.

Would you mind adding this on to the end of the other post too so that anyone looking through it can hopefully benefit from your great work? I'll update my first post to link to this one too.

 
#6 ·
Fantastic fix by a layman. At least your fix should last longer than Clitroens.
As you point out, It wont fix everybody`s woes(y):oops::oops:

But as info goes, this could be a saver of many a system failure. And also a credit rating.

As you managed to stop your H.A.L.1560 from stopping the mission.

So sorry about the last line, But a bit of humour sometimes helps pass the time sir, whilst lying in the rain on your back on a bit of wet cardboard.